The five-speed transmission in The Alfatross is part of the SS package, along with the 1975 cc engine, Solex 40 P II carbs, 8:1 compression ratio, low-restriction exhaust system, 4:55 differential and other performance enhancements. In 1955, if you were intent on racing your 1900C SSZ, this was the transmission to have!
Back in 1969/70 when I was still driving The Alfatross, it had shifting problems. Sometimes, it was as if the clutch was not disengaging fully. Other times it was fine. I learned to make shifts very carefully. But when we were restoring the chassis we discovered what was probably the source of that problem, something that absolved the transmission itself from any blame. A bracket anchoring the clutch release linkage was separating from its attachment to the chassis and probably flexing, rendering disengagement of the clutch unpredictable. Tim Marinos re-welded the bracket during the paint and body work.
Tim's welding seems to have done the job. The dragging clutch problem no longer exists, but there is another problem that likely will be more difficult to resolve: oil leaks! Before mating the trans to the engine I cleaned it up and took it to the local Alfa "go to" guy with the request that he look it over for obvious problems--like oil leaks. He replaced the seals around the front and rear drive shafts, but not the ones between the the steel central body and the aluminum cases at either end. Now it looks as though these two seals are the problem.
Like everything else about The Alfatross, there are no small problems. In the hope that a commercial sealing fluid could fix or at least diminish the problem I ordered a bottle of Blue Devil made specifically for transmissions--what did I have to lose?.
The directions said to add one ounce per quart of fluid. That's when I realized I did not know how much oil the transmission contained. I could not find any reference to that in the literature available, but in any case the only totally reliable way to determine the volume would be to fill the case to the bottom of the fill port then drain the trans and measure the amount.
That's when I remembered that the only way to access the fill port is to remove the transmission cowling, and the only way to remove the cowling is to take out the seats and most of the carpeting in the front half of the interior!
While doing all this I couldn't help but wonder what other owners have done in the past to circumvent the need to strip the interior just to change the oil or check the level in the transmission. The problem of insufficient clearance between the fill port and the cowling is compounded by the use of a 14 mm plug requiring a hex key. Whether in an "L" configuration, socket form, or using the hex wrench that comes with the factory tool kit, there is not enough clearance to mate the wrench to the plug.
Considering what my options might be I came up with three possibilities: (1) Do nothing and let the next owner figure it out. (2) Cut a hole in the side of the cowling to permit access to the fill port so you don't have to tear the interior out just to check the oil level, and (3) Switch the fill and drain plugs so that the 14 mm hex plug is in the drain port and the bolt-head plug is in the fill port, readily accessible with a common open end wrench.
Option (2) was a non-starter for a number of reasons. I admit that the easiest option (1) had a certain appeal, but option (3) seemed to be the best, even though it would still make checking the oil level somewhat cumbersome and require a pressure-operated oiler.
I still needed to determine the volume of oil in the transmission case so I could add the right amount of transmission sealer. I topped it off, drained it completely and decanted the oil into graduated glass beakers, obtaining a total volume of 2,200 mL (2.32 qt) +/-5%. At 2 oz per qt, that translates to 2.32 oz (69 mL) of transmission sealer.
Transmissions take a beating, particularly those in sports cars. A bad driver can destroy one in seconds. Gears get rounded off when a shift is missed under power or if the linkage is bad. Synchros wear out. Transmissions leak, run out of oil, and seize up. I have no way of knowing what The Alfatross' transmission was subjected to before I got it. After I get it out on the open road I may find more problems, but that will have to wait until the snow melts . . . .
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| The Alfatross' 5-speed transmission has the desirable floor shift lever configuration rather than the more common column shift. The oil leaks are emanating from the seals between the black steel central body of the transmission and the aluminum housings at either end. |
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| Specifications for the 1900C SS transmission and differential (highlighted). Alfa Romeo Owner's Manual. |
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| 1900C SS 5- speed gear ratios (highlighted). Alfa Romeo Owner's Manual. |
Back in 1969/70 when I was still driving The Alfatross, it had shifting problems. Sometimes, it was as if the clutch was not disengaging fully. Other times it was fine. I learned to make shifts very carefully. But when we were restoring the chassis we discovered what was probably the source of that problem, something that absolved the transmission itself from any blame. A bracket anchoring the clutch release linkage was separating from its attachment to the chassis and probably flexing, rendering disengagement of the clutch unpredictable. Tim Marinos re-welded the bracket during the paint and body work. Tim's welding seems to have done the job. The dragging clutch problem no longer exists, but there is another problem that likely will be more difficult to resolve: oil leaks! Before mating the trans to the engine I cleaned it up and took it to the local Alfa "go to" guy with the request that he look it over for obvious problems--like oil leaks. He replaced the seals around the front and rear drive shafts, but not the ones between the the steel central body and the aluminum cases at either end. Now it looks as though these two seals are the problem.
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| The transmission sits high in an Alfa 1900 chassis, intruding far into the cabin, more beside the driver than below the floor pan. |
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| View of the fill port (top) and drain port. The distance between the face of the fill port and the inside of the trans cowling is less than 1.5 in (3.8 cm). No way to get a 14 mm Allen key into it without removing the cowling! |
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| The fill port plug bears the scars of previous owners' frustrated attempts to use pliers to remove it instead of a proper 14 mm hex wrench. |
Like everything else about The Alfatross, there are no small problems. In the hope that a commercial sealing fluid could fix or at least diminish the problem I ordered a bottle of Blue Devil made specifically for transmissions--what did I have to lose?.
The directions said to add one ounce per quart of fluid. That's when I realized I did not know how much oil the transmission contained. I could not find any reference to that in the literature available, but in any case the only totally reliable way to determine the volume would be to fill the case to the bottom of the fill port then drain the trans and measure the amount.
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| The trans cowling comes off easily. Just remove the front seats, all of the insulation and carpeting in the front half of the cabin, cover everything with moving blankets, tape off all painted or metal surfaces, then remove the accelerator linkage and seal, along with 10 bolts and 2 sheet metal screws and you're done . . . until you have to replace it all again! |
While doing all this I couldn't help but wonder what other owners have done in the past to circumvent the need to strip the interior just to change the oil or check the level in the transmission. The problem of insufficient clearance between the fill port and the cowling is compounded by the use of a 14 mm plug requiring a hex key. Whether in an "L" configuration, socket form, or using the hex wrench that comes with the factory tool kit, there is not enough clearance to mate the wrench to the plug.
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| Topping off the trans oil, followed by draining it completely to measure the volume. |
Option (2) was a non-starter for a number of reasons. I admit that the easiest option (1) had a certain appeal, but option (3) seemed to be the best, even though it would still make checking the oil level somewhat cumbersome and require a pressure-operated oiler.
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| A 1900 Alfa 5-speed trans holds 2,200 mL of oil. |
Transmissions take a beating, particularly those in sports cars. A bad driver can destroy one in seconds. Gears get rounded off when a shift is missed under power or if the linkage is bad. Synchros wear out. Transmissions leak, run out of oil, and seize up. I have no way of knowing what The Alfatross' transmission was subjected to before I got it. After I get it out on the open road I may find more problems, but that will have to wait until the snow melts . . . .
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| Not the best time of the year for road testing in New Mexico! |
