The Alfatross

The Alfatross
The Alfatross in 1965 and 50 years later in 2016

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Keeping Cool (Post # 22)

What takes the most time in a restoration?  A lot of categories vie for that honor, but at the moment I would say it is "details."  If you pay attention to the details and do things right, it will be worth it later on, but while you're actually doing it there is a little voice whispering "Is this really necessary?"  Who is ever going to see it, and even if they do, how would they know the difference?

Case in point is the harmless-looking widget below.  When I disassembled the engine room it was embedded in the top tank of the Alfatross' radiator with just the small shaft sticking out.   What the . . . ?   Immediately in front of the radiator was a louvered frame, obviously meant to open and close to assist warming up the engine.  A rod on a pivot was attached to the middle of the top louver and the others were linked to it to follow its motion.  I reasoned that the widget had at one time been connected somehow to the louvers, but there was nothing there now.  The louvers were wired up in the full open position.

The radiator widget.  The numbers in the upper left corner of this photo are
stamped into the bronze body.  IPRA is probably the manufacturer.  The  "4"
above is probably a size and the numbers below are probably the temperature
ranges at which it opens and closes the louvers as the
water in the radiator warms up.

Here's the louver frame that sat in front of the radiator.  The rod in the middle
of the top louver was intact, but how did it connect to the widget?
For many years I was at a loss to find a replacement widget or figure out how the linkage between it and the louver box worked.  The breakthrough came when I saw the car below at a show in 2002.  It had only recently come to light and was on display as an exciting new "barn find."  While other spectators were admiring the remarkably intact interior and engine room, I was peering through the narrow openings in the nose to see if the louver actuating linkage was still there.  It was!

The car that solved the mystery.
Normally, it would have been impossible to photograph the linkage, but as luck would have it the car was missing the grill frames on either side of the central grill and the unobstructed openings were just big enough to get my digital camera inside.  The photos revealed that the linkage was intact and operational, which was great, but also that it consisted of no less than 9 parts and was not the sort of thing that could be duplicated from photos alone. 

Here is the 9-part linkage in the barn find car.  The widget is invisible inside the
radiator.  As the coolant in the radiator heats up, something inside the widget
 expands and pushes the end shaft out against a roller mounted on the lever arm.
 The spring helps to push the end shaft back into the widget as the radiator cools.
I figured that finding an intact, operational, linkage assembly like this was unlikely, but maybe the owner of this car would be willing to take it off and send it to me so I could duplicate it for my car-especially if I sent him my front grill frames so he could duplicate them for his car!  And that's exactly what we did. 

In addition to lots of photos shot from every angle, it was critical to record all the dimensions and types
of metals used: bronze for the lever arm, spring steel for the spring, brass for the rivets, mild steel
for the cotter keys, and hard steel for the roller and axle.



Recording the linkage assembly was the easy part.  Making it was hard.  The lever arm was the hardest part to duplicate because it was a solid piece that had to be cast.  I didn't want to send the original to a foundry, so in addition to photographs and dimensions, I also made a mold of the roller and lever arm assembly and cast it in resin.  I sent this to the foundry for final casting.


The resin cast of the lever arm that was sent to the foundry for duplication in
bronze. 
The next challenge was the spring.  I knew I couldn't do this myself, so I farmed it out to a specialty spring maker in Corpus Christi.  I was astounded at the cost estimate: $250!   It was the last spring they ever made.  When I went to pick it up the owner was locking the doors and closing up shop for good.  I guess that even at $250 each the specialty spring market is pretty thin.

How do you measure a spring, anyway?  The important is figuring out its "springiness"
So the Devil really is in the details.  All this, spread out over about 10 years, for a part that would fit in the palm of your hand, a part that the car really doesn't have to have and few would notice the difference if it didn't . . .

. . .  and I'm still trying to figure out how to open the widget to rebuild it!






7 comments:

  1. I have made springs similar (but not as complicated by buying spring steel wires from hardware store and bending them up. Set the widget in heated water and see if the plunger moves; if it works then, you don't have to fix it.

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  2. I posted your Blog on https://www.facebook.com/groups/153592904679646/?ref=ts&fref=ts which is the AROC SD Facebook Page.

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  3. Hi again Eduardo,

    Thanks for the suggestion about putting the widget in hot water to see if it reacts. I put it in a heated solvent bath set at 160 F. The actuator shaft didn't push out, BUT I discovered that heating it up made it possible to pull the shaft out several inches. There must be a return spring inside, because as soon as I let the shaft go it retreated into the widget. After it cooled off the shaft wouldn't budge. I looked the widget over carefully and there seems to be a seam near the back end that may indicate it is composed of two parts that could be unscrewed. Will continue to research it.

    Thanks for posting my blog to the AROC Facebook page!

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  4. Donald....We are in the EXACT same situation as you were in! We have finally sourced an original shutter out of Italy, but we are missing all of the arms/springs, etc.

    When you had these parts made, by any chance, did you make duplicates? We are restoring a 1955 Alfa 1900CSS (with a one off body by Ghia-Aigle)....very special car...but missing the shutter pieces! Any help, other than the wonderful blueprints above, would be greatly appreciated! My direct contact is: jpw@thecreativeworkshop.com....thanks!

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  5. JPW--Happy to help. No, I didn't make duplicates, but I think I have enough photos and dimensions so you can fabricate your own. I will send them to your e-mail address. Saw your Web site--awesome! You're in a great location for car restoration. My Mom grew up in Ft. Lauderdale in the 1920s. There was not a single paved road and her mother bought fruit and vegetables from Seminoles who paddled down the river from the interior! Not that long ago!

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  6. IPRA or "I.P.R.A." = Industria Piemontese Radiatori per Automobili

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  7. Thank you again, Mr. de Boer. As it happens, not long after I posted this Mr. Jason Wenig of The Creative Workshop in Dania Beach, Florida, contacted me for additional information about the curiously intricate louver linkage to the thermostatic IPRA actuator. I loaned him the pieces, photos, and drawings I had of the linkage in exchange for a working IPRA "widget."

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